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Today's Topics:
1. Re: moisture (AGM Afval- & Grondstoffen Management)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 12 Apr 2011 09:30:30 +0200
From: "AGM Afval- & Grondstoffen Management"
<info@vanafvaltotgrondstof...>
To: "European strawbale building discussions"
<strawbale@amper....muni.cz>
Subject: Re: [Strawbale] moisture
Message-ID: <CF1D4F5A1972409C935D1F213D07AFCD@DELL2004>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Hello Nikolay and others,
In our bathroom, we used a clay stucco and added an additive from my
supplier of ecological materials called Tierrafino Fix which makes
it more resistant to water; when becoming wet, it doesn't start to
become soft immediately. But it still can when more water has
touched the wall.
In our experience this worked very well, we haven't had any problems
in 3 years now!
I expect the breathability will also go down a bit because of this
additive. This additive is made of cellulose, alcoholester,
kieselgur, silicats, clay minerals and water and a minor fraction
(0.1%) synthetic means for conservation. It's a liquid and a bit
transparent substance.
It's probably hard too get outside the Netherlands, but maybe this
info helps to help you looking for comparable additives or make sth.
yourself.
Lime is not only used at the exterior because of the damp-openness,
but even more because its water-resistancy. I wouldn't know which
material is more dampopen - lime or clay stucco. I guess this can
vary quite a lot depending also of the exact mixtures you use for
the clay (% of sand, % of clay etc.).
Regards,
Rob Gort
----- Original Message -----
From: jonas kacerauskas
To: European strawbale building discussions
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 8:17 AM
Subject: Re: [Strawbale] moisture
Hello again dear friends,
I want to specify one important moment for all of us: all the time
from different sources i was achieved information that lime plaster
is more "breathable" than clay plaster, whats why i was tought to
put clay plaster on interior and lime on exterior..the last time i
saw this in UK in the library built by Amazonails...so i am very
suprised about Andrew information...
best regards:)
2011/4/8 Andrew Morrison <Andrew@strawbale...>
You're welcome Niki and you are on the right track to start off
with the detailing fully understood. As Derek said, be sure to pay
attention to all the details in creating a continuous air barrier.
Some common places of concern are around holes in the plaster
(electrical outlets and switches, ventilation gaps for the sauna,
etc.), the transition from one surface to another like from the wall
to the ground or ceiling, and from different materials, like where
the plaster meets an exposed post or beam, and at window and door
openings. Attention and detailing here is well worth the time and
effort. Good luck with your project!
Andrew
On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 11:59 AM, Nikolay Marinov <nikvesmar@gmail...
> wrote:
Thank you guys,ery
this is very important issue for me to get deeper in this
topic. Precise detailing from the beginning is really right way for
the solution. That's why I wanted to put this discussion.
Also I would like to make few experimental walls and take
samples after some period, but that is a long process.
Thank you for the replies and recommendations.
Your support is really important for me, thank you deeply.
Niki
On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 8:43 PM, Derek Roff <derek@unm...> wrote:
I agree with Andrew, that the relative permeability of the
interior and exterior plasters is an important consideration in very
damp situations like saunas and bathrooms. I'd like to add that
very careful construction detailing is probably even more
important. Research by the Canadian Mortgage and Housing
Corporation (CMHC), an agency of the Canadian government, showed
that having a continuous air barrier was very necessary to avoid
moisture problems within the walls, regardless of construction method.
Tiny cracks, holes, and seams that allow air movement into
the walls will transport a lot of moisture with them; that moisture
will be concentrated at a few spots, and condensation within the
wall is very likely. This can easily cause mold and other microbial
bale decay. A small break in the air barrier may transport more
moisture into the wall than the diffusion through several square
meters of plaster.
Build carefully, and if possible, check for air gaps and
leaks before putting the sauna or bathroom into service.
Derelict
Derek Roff
Language Learning Center
Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100
University of New Mexico
Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001
505/277-7368, fax 505/277-3885
Internet: derek@unm...
--On Friday, April 8, 2011 10:02 AM -0700 Andrew Morrison <Andrew@StrawBale...
> wrote:
Hi Niki and Jonas. I would be careful using a material like
clay (earthen plaster) on an interior surface and lime on the
exterior. Keep in mind that clay allows for more movement of vapor
(is more "breathable") than lime. This means that one can transport
say 1 measure of vapor into a bale wall through the clay plaster
while only allowing for .75 measure to move out through the lime in
the same time period. This means that excess moisture can get stuck
in the bales.
I have a wet sauna here in the states made of straw bale
walls. I used lime plaster on both sides of the walls with a lime
paint on the interior. After a sauna is completed, we open all of
the ventilation ports and through an extra log or two into the fire.
This drives the moisture through the vents and walls and dries
things out with the dry heat of the fire. It's very successful.
Andrew
On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 8:46 AM, jonas kacerauskas <jonaskacerauskas@gmail...
> wrote:
Hello Nikolay,
Here in Lithuania 4 years ago we have built straw bale
bathhouse (like sauna, just with a lot of moisture - we call it
russian sauna), where we use simple clay plaster about 3 cm. on
interior wall and from the incident water protect with wooden
plankets (there is natural ventilation inside). On exterior we did
lime plaster - till now everything works fine. tadelact is quite
expensive way and not needed way to deal with it. As we saw its
enougth just clay plaster to deal with humidity and ussual you need
to protect just several places from the direct water and were are a
lot of ways to do it:)
best regards
2011/4/6 Nikolay Marinov <nikvesmar@gmail...>
Hi everyone,
I would like to ask you for advice and share your experience
about preventing moisture, penetrating into SB walls from bathroom,
and other spaces with high humidity level.
What kind of layers and finishes do you prefer to protect
your wall if not using conventional waterproof materials.
I know few techniques as: Tadelakt (good water barrier but
time consuming); Double skin wall with ventilated space
between,glass on the wall, but it would be nice to share a trusted
and working in time method that builders and designers like you
prefer as solution.
Thank you in advance for you opinion.
Have a nice spring sun.
Niki
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____________________________________________________
--
Andrew Morrison
Consultant, Teacher, Inspiring Change
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