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Hello Nikolay and others,
In our bathroom, we used a clay stucco and added an
additive from my supplier of ecological materials called Tierrafino
Fix which makes it more resistant to water; when becoming wet, it doesn't
start to become soft immediately. But it still can when more water has touched
the wall.
In our experience this worked very well, we haven't
had any problems in 3 years now!
I expect the breathability will also go down a bit
because of this additive. This additive is made of cellulose,
alcoholester, kieselgur, silicats, clay minerals and water and a minor
fraction (0.1%) synthetic means for conservation. It's a liquid and a bit
transparent substance.
It's probably hard too get outside the Netherlands,
but maybe this info helps to help you looking for comparable additives or make
sth. yourself.
Lime is not only used at the exterior because of
the damp-openness, but even more because its water-resistancy. I wouldn't know
which material is more dampopen - lime or clay stucco. I guess this can vary
quite a lot depending also of the exact mixtures you use for the clay (% of
sand, % of clay etc.).
Regards,
Rob Gort
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 8:17
AM
Subject: Re: [Strawbale] moisture
Hello again dear friends,
I want to specify one important moment for all of us: all the time from
different sources i was achieved information that lime plaster is more
"breathable" than clay plaster, whats why i was tought to put clay plaster on
interior and lime on exterior..the last time i saw this in UK in the library
built by Amazonails...so i am very suprised about Andrew information...
best regards:)
2011/4/8 Andrew Morrison <Andrew@strawbale...>
You're welcome Niki and you are on the right track to
start off with the detailing fully understood. As Derek said, be sure to pay
attention to all the details in creating a continuous air barrier. Some
common places of concern are around holes in the plaster (electrical outlets
and switches, ventilation gaps for the sauna, etc.), the transition from one
surface to another like from the wall to the ground or ceiling, and from
different materials, like where the plaster meets an exposed post or beam,
and at window and door openings. Attention and detailing here is well worth
the time and effort. Good luck with your project!
Andrew
On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 11:59 AM, Nikolay Marinov
<nikvesmar@gmail...> wrote:
Thank you guys,ery
this is very important issue for
me to get deeper in this topic. Precise detailing from the beginning is
really right way for the solution. That's why I wanted to put this
discussion.
Also I would like to make few experimental walls and take
samples after some period, but that is a long process.
Thank you for
the replies and recommendations.
Your support is really important for
me, thank you deeply.
Niki
On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 8:43 PM, Derek Roff <derek@unm...> wrote:
I agree with Andrew, that the relative permeability of
the interior and exterior plasters is an important consideration in very
damp situations like saunas and bathrooms. I'd like to add that
very careful construction detailing is probably even more important.
Research by the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC),
an agency of the Canadian government, showed that having a continuous
air barrier was very necessary to avoid moisture problems within the
walls, regardless of construction method.
Tiny cracks, holes, and
seams that allow air movement into the walls will transport a lot of
moisture with them; that moisture will be concentrated at a few spots,
and condensation within the wall is very likely. This can easily
cause mold and other microbial bale decay. A small break in the
air barrier may transport more moisture into the wall than the diffusion
through several square meters of plaster.
Build carefully, and if
possible, check for air gaps and leaks before putting the sauna or
bathroom into service.
Derelict
Derek Roff
Language
Learning Center
Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100
University of New
Mexico
Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001
505/277-7368, fax 505/277-3885
Internet: derek@unm...
--On Friday, April 8, 2011 10:02 AM -0700 Andrew
Morrison <Andrew@StrawBale...> wrote: Hi Niki and Jonas. I
would be careful using a material like clay (earthen plaster) on an
interior surface and lime on the exterior. Keep in mind that clay allows
for more movement of vapor (is more "breathable") than lime. This means
that one can transport say 1 measure of vapor into a bale wall through
the clay plaster while only allowing for .75 measure to move out through
the lime in the same time period. This means that excess moisture can
get stuck in the bales. I have a wet sauna here in the states
made of straw bale walls. I used lime plaster on both sides of the walls
with a lime paint on the interior. After a sauna is completed, we open
all of the ventilation ports and through an extra log or two into the
fire. This drives the moisture through the vents and walls and dries
things out with the dry heat of the fire. It's very
successful. Andrew On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 8:46 AM,
jonas kacerauskas < jonaskacerauskas@gmail...> wrote: Hello
Nikolay,
best regards 2011/4/6 Nikolay Marinov < nikvesmar@gmail...> Hi everyone, I
would like to ask you for advice and share your experience about
preventing moisture, penetrating into SB walls from bathroom, and other
spaces with high humidity level. What kind of layers and finishes do
you prefer to protect your wall if not using conventional waterproof
materials. I know few techniques as: Tadelakt (good water barrier but
time consuming); Double skin wall with ventilated space between,glass on
the wall, but it would be nice to share a trusted and working in time
method that builders and designers like you prefer as
solution. Thank you in advance for you opinion. Have a
nice spring
sun. Niki ____________________________________________________
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