Po?tovani Jure,
Ko god da je nacrtao ovaj poprečni presek zida,
pogre?io je. Ovo nije dobar način i ovako će vam malter spolja sigurno
popucati.. Bale slame ne treba da posmatrate kao zamenu za termoizolaciju, već
kao građevinski blok od koga se obično zidaju zidovi unutar neke konstrukcije
(armiranobetonske, čelične ili drvene). Ovaj crte? meni liči na dodatnu
izolaciju na monta?noj kući.
Instalacije se pru?aju unutar zida izgrađenog od
bala slame - u balama se iskopaju kanali brusilicom koja ima disk kao motorna
testera ili motornom testerom, kablovi i cevi se polo?e u te kanale pa se sve
izmalteri?e.
Ne znam kakav zavr?ni izgled hoćete da postignete,
ali ako i spolja i iznutra radite clay render - OSB ili druge ploče su apsolutno
nepotrebne. Posle veoma malo prakse u ravnanju zida ozidanog balama slame
dobićete veoma urednu povr?inu za nano?enje glinenog maltera.
?to se tiče sleganja, konstrukcija objekta treba
da obezbedi krutost, ne zid od slame. Kada balama ozidate zid unutar
konstruktivnih elemenata, nema straha za pucanje od sleganja. Bale se nalaze
unutar nekakvog rama, dobro uglavljene, poravnate i izmalterisane. Na
karakterističnim mestima se postavljaju ojačanja od rabica (pletene pocinkovane
mre?e) da ne bi do?lo do pucanja maltera (bez obzira koje je on
vrste.
Stegnutost bala slame se reguli?e prilikom
baliranja i zato je dobro ugovarati slamu direktno sa polja, a onda sa nekim ko
će je balirati posebno pogodite zategnutost vanila (kanapa kojima je bala
svezana).
Ne znam da li ste pročitali moje prethodne poruke,
ali u meni mo?ete naći veoma koristan izvor informacija. Sledeće godine
počinjemo da gradimo na?u fabriku od 4.400 m2, čiji će svi zidovi biti od bala
slame. Jedina smo firma u Srbiji koja je sertifikovala zid od bala slame na
protivpo?arnu otpornost od 120 minuta (jer po na?im propisima ne treba
du?e).
Izučavam profesionalno (kao građevinac) gradnju
slamom već godinama i slobodno mogu da ka?em da sam dosta daleko odmakao u
tome.
U ?elji da pomognem, ne da se nametnem, srdačno
Vas pozdravljam i stavljam se na raspolaganje za svako Va?e
pitanje.
Bane M. Prvanovic
GPB Solutions d.o.o.
Celopecka 8
11000
Beograd
t / f +381 11 386 23 29
m + 381 60 711 0
211
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2010 7:58
PM
Subject: Re: [Strawbale] Europe's largest
strawbale building
Dear fellow straw balers,
I
appreciate help of all who replied to my previous posts so far, which have
helped me a lot with planning my first straw bale house. I have been able to
put together a house plan for post & beam with straw bales outside and now
when it is finished I would like to ask you for an opinion. I am attaching
wall intersection and want to hear your say. If you consider that your replies
are too valuable to share freely, please give me number and I am willing to
pay a certain amount if it will help me with my planning (reasonable answers
with theoretical explanation why should it be done so and so)
The questions
that are still crossing my mind are:
1. are OSB plates
really better than wooden boards on the inside of the post & beam
structure. Timber guys told me the wooden boards breathe too much which make
the clay plaster break. I know wooden boards would be cheaper and more natural
but I don`t really want to have cracks on my walls. They tell me OSB plates
breathe enough. Is it true? The same question with the OSB plates on the
outside of the structure: do they breathe enough or will they make moisture on
the straw bales when warm air will go from outside to the inside? Or is the
lime plaster enough to suck up all the moisture from the straw bale? And how
much moisture can really go through the lime plaster? If it is low, than I
guess it shouldn`t be a problem. What happens when warm air goes through the
wall from the inside to the outside? Will it condense?
2.
Another question is what percentage of straw bale can be
pressed for every meter? If the straw bale wall is 10 meters high, how much
should it be compressed that it won`t fall down/compress any further in the
future?
3. as far as I know it is necessary to compress the straw bale
wall, to avoid settling/compressing in the future which would also make the
lime plaster crack. How do I compress the walls where I have windows and
doors? Is it better to use board frames or are boards above the openings
sufficient?
4. I am planning to do floor and roof isolation with straw
bales as well. I can remember a discussion from Belgium that it is not best to
put straw bales in the floor, but can`t remember the explanation why not. I
think it was professor Minke who opposed the straw bale floor isolation but
there wasn`t enough evidence to prove this theory.
5. I am also a bit
concerned about the straw bales on the roof. We are planning to do the
continuous straw bale layer with only screws in the middle to fix the roof
laths so there shouldn`t be no problems with the thermal bridging. The thing
that concerns me is the classical vapor foil which will be laid above the
straw bales. It is supposed to be breathable, but I am afraid it will make
condensation in the straw bales. The foil is necessary if the rain gets under
the roof tiles - so it slips down the foil. Would it be maybe wise to put
another foil below the straw bales, or would it be better to put dip the straw
bales in clay before putting them on the roof, so it would such the moisture
out of them?
I appreciate your knowledge, as there are only a few
people in my country who know something about straw bale building and they
have very little experience as there are only a few straw bale houses in
Slovenia and they are all done with infill design which is suitable for
certain regions, but not for where I live where we have big temperature
differences. If everything goes right the house will be standing till the next
ESBG, which I plan to attend. I will start working with straw bales
professionally next year in September and will also initiate straw bale
association of Slovenia to share the knowledge of straw bale
building.
With best wishes to you all,
Jure Po?ar, SLOVENIA STRAWBALE BUILDING
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