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> The problem with gaps is that the mice like to
live in them.
The gap is also a higher risk for condensation, and
(when we talk of greater surfaces) could act as a chimney if there were to be a
fire behind that cladding etc.
I like Harald's suggestion to push tiles in the
clay, but care needs to be taken on the joints as they will be the danger zone.
The plaster behind the glued tiles needs to be
absolutely dry and finished settling in order to prevent cracking. When Tom
Rijven needs to garantee a no crack earth plaster he will wait for a year (the 4
seasons with their caracteristics)before he will do the last layer.
A bit further south than where you are, Marocco
offers an other suggestion. Taddelact (or whatever is your favorite
spelling)
A lime plaster that has been waterproofed by
'crushing it' with a stone during the curing and treated with what we call
'green' soap in Holland. (The grandmothers type). A very interesting technique
that we want to try in our bathroom on our SB wall. Search for more info on the
Internet, or take a workshop in Marocco with the experts.
Little warning, it gives an absolutely beautiful
finish, but may not be a simple owner builder technique.
Martin Oehlmann suggested a natural paint from
Holland that makes plaster waterproof. Seems the most simple to me, though
(linseed) oil should also work. The problem is only, what if it doesn't work?
How to detect any moisture problems in your sb wall
before it is too late.
With a moisture meter, either bought at a farmers
shop or hand made (see TLS no?)
Bye,
Andre
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 4:26
PM
Subject: Re: [Strawbale] waterproofing
the bathroom
Hi Rikki
I agree with Herbert's thinking. You'd be best
with some sort of rigid board that does not deform when wet to fix your tiles
to such as heraklith, or there are some clay boards available commercially but
not necessarily in your part of Spain. I'd try to only tile the bits that get
direct splash from water and leave the rest breathable, and then there should
be no need to leave an air gap. The problem with gaps is that the mice like to
live in them. If the straw is loadbearing and therefore under compression, as
long as you gave it a close haircut before plastering (to reduce bounce) I
would think you could fix tiles directly onto the walls as you do for other
wall systems. As far as I know, this hasn't been tried before, but let us know
if you do it!
Best wishes and good luck
Barbara
Amazon Nails: Strawbale building, training, consultancy,
empowerment.
www.strawbalefutures.org.ukBuilding
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transform your life!
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 6:29
PM
Subject: Re: [Strawbale] waterproofing
the bathroom
Dear Rikki
Knauf is a gypsum-board, the problem is, that
such boards (even the cement-boards) tend to make a bow,
when you fix
the tiles on it or glue it to the wall (in combination with
water).
Better work with Heraklith-boards (3 - 5 cm, magnesium-glued) and
fix the tiles with cement-based tile-glue (Fliesenkleber).
You need no
space between board and straw. You only need space when you have two
materials - one cold (like stone) and the other warm (like strawbale)
because of water-condensation or as a ventilation-space. In the last
case you had to make holes above ground and under the ceiling, so that
the air could circulate. But in this case the damp would go in the bales.
So: Make no ventilation space.
Best wishes
Herbert
HI!
I am thinking of putting panels of pladur or
knauf (a type of cement board) covered with tiles in the bathroom to
protect the bales from the water of the shower (not yet installed), but i
was wondering if I should put a layer of plaster under the board? Also,
should I leave an air space between the board and the bale wall, or
should they touch? Does it matter?
any comments or
alternative ideas are appreciated; I haven´t started the work there yet,
so I am open to other suggestions . . .
MAY THE
wings OF LIBERTY NEVER LOSE A SINGLE FEATHER!
love , RIKKI
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