[Strawbale] moisture

Tue Apr 12 08:17:26 CEST 2011

Hello again dear friends,
I want to specify one important moment for all of us: all the time from
different sources i was achieved information that lime plaster is more
"breathable" than clay plaster, whats why i was tought to put clay plaster
on interior and lime on exterior..the last time i saw this in UK in the
library built by Amazonails...so i am very suprised about Andrew
information...
best regards:)
2011/4/8 Andrew Morrison <Andrew at strawbale...>

> You're welcome Niki and you are on the right track to start off with the
> detailing fully understood. As Derek said, be sure to pay attention to all
> the details in creating a continuous air barrier. Some common places of
> concern are around holes in the plaster (electrical outlets and switches,
> ventilation gaps for the sauna, etc.), the transition from one surface to
> another like from the wall to the ground or ceiling, and from different
> materials, like where the plaster meets an exposed post or beam, and at
> window and door openings. Attention and detailing here is well worth the
> time and effort. Good luck with your project!
>
> Andrew
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 11:59 AM, Nikolay Marinov <nikvesmar at gmail...>wrote:
>
>> Thank you guys,ery
>> this is very important issue for me to get deeper in this topic. Precise
>> detailing from the beginning is really right way for the solution. That's
>> why I wanted to put this discussion.
>> Also I would like to make few experimental walls and take samples after
>> some period, but that is a long process.
>> Thank you for the replies and recommendations.
>> Your support is really important for me, thank you deeply.
>>
>> Niki
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 8:43 PM, Derek Roff <derek at unm...> wrote:
>>
>>> I agree with Andrew, that the relative permeability of the interior and
>>> exterior plasters is an important consideration in very damp situations like
>>> saunas and bathrooms.  I'd like to add that very careful construction
>>> detailing is probably even more important.  Research by the Canadian
>>> Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC), an agency of the Canadian
>>> government, showed that having a continuous air barrier was very necessary
>>> to avoid moisture problems within the walls, regardless of construction
>>> method.
>>>
>>> Tiny cracks, holes, and seams that allow air movement into the walls will
>>> transport a lot of moisture with them; that moisture will be concentrated at
>>> a few spots, and condensation within the wall is very likely.  This can
>>> easily cause mold and other microbial bale decay.  A small break in the air
>>> barrier may transport more moisture into the wall than the diffusion through
>>> several square meters of plaster.
>>>
>>> Build carefully, and if possible, check for air gaps and leaks before
>>> putting the sauna or bathroom into service.
>>>
>>> Derelict
>>>
>>> Derek Roff
>>> Language Learning Center
>>> Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100
>>> University of New Mexico
>>> Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001
>>> 505/277-7368, fax 505/277-3885
>>> Internet: derek at unm...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --On Friday, April 8, 2011 10:02 AM -0700 Andrew Morrison
>>> <Andrew at StrawBale...> wrote:
>>> Hi Niki and Jonas. I would be careful using a material like clay (earthen
>>> plaster) on an interior surface and lime on the exterior. Keep in mind that
>>> clay allows for more movement of vapor (is more "breathable") than lime.
>>> This means that one can transport say 1 measure of vapor into a bale wall
>>> through the clay plaster while only allowing for .75 measure to move out
>>> through the lime in the same time period. This means that excess moisture
>>> can get stuck in the bales.
>>>
>>> I have a wet sauna here in the states made of straw bale walls. I used
>>> lime plaster on both sides of the walls with a lime paint on the interior.
>>> After a sauna is completed, we open all of the ventilation ports and through
>>> an extra log or two into the fire. This drives the moisture through the
>>> vents and walls and dries things out with the dry heat of the fire. It's
>>> very successful.
>>>
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 8:46 AM, jonas kacerauskas <
>>> jonaskacerauskas at gmail...> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> Hello Nikolay,
>>> Here in Lithuania 4 years ago we have built straw bale bathhouse (like
>>> sauna, just with a lot of moisture - we call it russian sauna), where we use
>>> simple clay plaster about 3 cm. on interior wall and from the incident
>>> water protect with wooden plankets (there is natural ventilation inside). On
>>> exterior we did lime plaster - till now everything works fine. tadelact is
>>> quite expensive way and not needed way to deal with it. As we saw its
>>> enougth just clay plaster to deal with humidity and ussual you need to
>>> protect just several places from the direct water and were are a lot of ways
>>> to do it:)
>>>
>>> best regards
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 2011/4/6 Nikolay Marinov <nikvesmar at gmail...>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hi everyone,
>>> I would like to ask you for advice and share your experience about
>>> preventing moisture, penetrating into SB walls from bathroom, and other
>>> spaces with high humidity level.
>>> What kind of layers and finishes do you prefer to protect your wall if
>>> not using conventional waterproof materials.
>>> I know few techniques as: Tadelakt (good water barrier but time
>>> consuming); Double skin wall with ventilated space between,glass on the
>>> wall, but it would be nice to share a trusted and working in time method
>>> that builders and designers like you prefer as solution.
>>>
>>> Thank you in advance for you opinion.
>>>
>>> Have a nice spring sun.
>>> Niki
>>>
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>>>
>>
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>>
>
>
>  --
> Andrew Morrison
> Consultant, Teacher, Inspiring Change
>
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