----- Original Message ----- 
    
    
    Sent: Tuesday, January 21, 2003 10:21 
    AM
    Subject: Re: [Strawbale] waterproofing 
    the bathroom
    
    > The problem with gaps is that the mice 
    like to live in them. 
    The gap is also a higher risk for condensation, 
    and (when we talk of greater surfaces) could act as a chimney if there were 
    to be a fire behind that cladding etc.
     
    I like Harald's suggestion to push tiles in the 
    clay, but care needs to be taken on the joints as they will be the danger 
    zone. 
    The plaster behind the glued tiles needs to be 
    absolutely dry and finished settling in order to prevent cracking. When Tom 
    Rijven needs to garantee a no crack earth plaster he will wait for a year 
    (the 4 seasons with their caracteristics)before he will do the last 
    layer.
     
    A bit further south than where you are, Marocco 
    offers an other suggestion. Taddelact (or whatever is your favorite 
    spelling)
    A lime plaster that has been waterproofed by 
    'crushing it' with a stone during the curing and treated with what we call 
    'green' soap in Holland. (The grandmothers type). A very interesting 
    technique that we want to try in our bathroom on our SB wall. Search for 
    more info on the Internet, or take a workshop in Marocco with the experts. 
    
    Little warning, it gives an absolutely 
    beautiful finish, but may not be a simple owner builder technique. 
    
     
    Martin Oehlmann suggested a natural paint from 
    Holland that makes plaster waterproof. Seems the most simple to me, though 
    (linseed) oil should also work. The problem is only, what if it doesn't 
    work? 
    How to detect any moisture problems in your sb 
    wall before it is too late.
    With a moisture meter, either bought at a 
    farmers shop or hand made (see TLS no?)
     
     
    Bye,
    Andre
    
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      
      
      Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 4:26 
      PM
      Subject: Re: [Strawbale] 
      waterproofing the bathroom
      
      Hi Rikki
      I agree with Herbert's thinking. You'd be 
      best with some sort of rigid board that does not deform when wet to fix 
      your tiles to such as heraklith, or there are some clay boards available 
      commercially but not necessarily in your part of Spain. I'd try to only 
      tile the bits that get direct splash from water and leave the rest 
      breathable, and then there should be no need to leave an air gap. The 
      problem with gaps is that the mice like to live in them. If the straw is 
      loadbearing and therefore under compression, as long as you gave it a 
      close haircut before plastering (to reduce bounce) I would think you could 
      fix tiles directly onto the walls as you do for other wall systems. As far 
      as I know, this hasn't been tried before, but let us know if you do 
      it!
      Best wishes and good luck
      Barbara
      Amazon Nails: Strawbale building, training, consultancy, 
      empowerment.                   
      
www.strawbalefutures.org.ukBuilding 
      With Straw Bales by Barbara Jones £9.50 post-free from Amazon Nails or 
      from Green Books
    Warning! Strawbale building can 
      seriously transform your life!   
 
       
       
       
       
      
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        
        
        Sent: Monday, January 13, 2003 6:29 
        PM
        Subject: Re: [Strawbale] 
        waterproofing the bathroom
        
Dear Rikki
Knauf is a gypsum-board, the problem is, 
        that such boards (even the cement-boards) tend to make a bow, 
when 
        you fix the tiles on it or glue it to the wall (in combination with 
        water).
Better work with Heraklith-boards (3 - 5 cm, magnesium-glued) 
        and fix the tiles with cement-based tile-glue (Fliesenkleber).
You 
        need no space between board and straw. You only need space when you have 
        two materials - one cold (like stone) and the other warm (like 
        strawbale) because of water-condensation or as a ventilation-space. In 
        the last  case you had to make holes above ground and under the 
        ceiling, so that the air could circulate. But in this case the damp 
        would go in the bales. 
So: Make no ventilation space.
Best 
        wishes
Herbert
        HI! 
I am thinking of putting panels of 
           pladur or knauf (a type of cement board) covered with tiles in 
          the bathroom to protect the bales from the water of the shower (not 
          yet installed), but i was wondering if I should put a layer of plaster 
          under the board? Also, should I leave an air space between  the 
          board and the bale wall, or should they touch? Does it matter? 
           
any comments or alternative ideas are appreciated; I 
          haven´t started the work there yet, so I  am open to other 
          suggestions  . . .
MAY THE wings OF LIBERTY NEVER LOSE 
          A SINGLE FEATHER! 
love , RIKKI 
          
          
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