Hi Jonas. Indeed, to the best of my knowledge, earthen plasters will "breathe" more than lime plasters. Of course the exact amount depends on the amount of clay in the earthen plaster and the type of clay.<br><br>
Andrew<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Apr 11, 2011 at 11:17 PM, jonas kacerauskas <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:jonaskacerauskas@gmail.com">jonaskacerauskas@gmail...</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">
<div>Hello again dear friends,</div>
<div>I want to specify one important moment for all of us: all the time from different sources i was achieved information that lime plaster is more "breathable" than clay plaster, whats why i was tought to put clay plaster on interior and lime on exterior..the last time i saw this in UK in the library built by Amazonails...so i am very suprised about Andrew information...</div>
<div>best regards:)<br></div>
<div class="gmail_quote"><div class="im">2011/4/8 Andrew Morrison <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:Andrew@strawbale..." target="_blank">Andrew@strawbale...</a>></span><br>
</div><blockquote style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;" class="gmail_quote"><div class="im">You're welcome Niki and you are on the right track to start off with the detailing fully understood. As Derek said, be sure to pay attention to all the details in creating a continuous air barrier. Some common places of concern are around holes in the plaster (electrical outlets and switches, ventilation gaps for the sauna, etc.), the transition from one surface to another like from the wall to the ground or ceiling, and from different materials, like where the plaster meets an exposed post or beam, and at window and door openings. Attention and detailing here is well worth the time and effort. Good luck with your project!<br>
<font color="#888888"><br>Andrew</font>
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<div class="gmail_quote"><div class="im">On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 11:59 AM, Nikolay Marinov <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:nikvesmar@gmail...com" target="_blank">nikvesmar@gmail...</a>></span> wrote:<br>
</div><div><div></div><div class="h5"><blockquote style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;" class="gmail_quote">Thank you guys,ery <br>this is very important issue for me to get deeper in this topic. Precise detailing from the beginning is really right way for the solution. That's why I wanted to put this discussion.<br>
Also I would like to make few experimental walls and take samples after some period, but that is a long process. <br>Thank you for the replies and recommendations.<br>Your support is really important for me, thank you deeply.<br>
<br>Niki<br><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Apr 8, 2011 at 8:43 PM, Derek Roff <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:derek@unm..." target="_blank">derek@unm.edu</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote style="border-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; padding-left: 1ex;" class="gmail_quote">I agree with Andrew, that the relative permeability of the interior and exterior plasters is an important consideration in very damp situations like saunas and bathrooms. I'd like to add that very careful construction detailing is probably even more important. Research by the Canadian Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC), an agency of the Canadian government, showed that having a continuous air barrier was very necessary to avoid moisture problems within the walls, regardless of construction method.<br>
<br>Tiny cracks, holes, and seams that allow air movement into the walls will transport a lot of moisture with them; that moisture will be concentrated at a few spots, and condensation within the wall is very likely. This can easily cause mold and other microbial bale decay. A small break in the air barrier may transport more moisture into the wall than the diffusion through several square meters of plaster.<br>
<br>Build carefully, and if possible, check for air gaps and leaks before putting the sauna or bathroom into service.<br><br>Derelict<br><br>Derek Roff<br>Language Learning Center<br>Ortega Hall 129, MSC03-2100<br>University of New Mexico<br>
Albuquerque, NM 87131-0001<br><a href="tel:505%2F277-7368" value="+15052777368" target="_blank">505/277-7368</a>, fax <a href="tel:505%2F277-3885" value="+15052773885" target="_blank">505/277-3885</a><br>Internet: <a href="mailto:derek@unm..." target="_blank">derek@unm...</a>
<div><br><br><br>--On Friday, April 8, 2011 10:02 AM -0700 Andrew Morrison <Andrew@StrawBale...> wrote:<br>Hi Niki and Jonas. I would be careful using a material like clay (earthen plaster) on an interior surface and lime on the exterior. Keep in mind that clay allows for more movement of vapor (is more "breathable") than lime. This means that one can transport say 1 measure of vapor into a bale wall through the clay plaster while only allowing for .75 measure to move out through the lime in the same time period. This means that excess moisture can get stuck in the bales.<br>
<br>I have a wet sauna here in the states made of straw bale walls. I used lime plaster on both sides of the walls with a lime paint on the interior. After a sauna is completed, we open all of the ventilation ports and through an extra log or two into the fire. This drives the moisture through the vents and walls and dries things out with the dry heat of the fire. It's very successful.<br>
<br>Andrew<br><br><br>On Wed, Apr 6, 2011 at 8:46 AM, jonas kacerauskas <<a href="mailto:jonaskacerauskas@gmail..." target="_blank">jonaskacerauskas@gmail...</a>> wrote:<br><br><br>Hello Nikolay,<br></div>Here in Lithuania 4 years ago we have built straw bale bathhouse (like sauna, just with a lot of moisture - we call it russian sauna), where we use simple clay plaster about 3 cm. on interior wall and from the incident water protect with wooden plankets (there is natural ventilation inside). On exterior we did lime plaster - till now everything works fine. tadelact is quite expensive way and not needed way to deal with it. As we saw its enougth just clay plaster to deal with humidity and ussual you need to protect just several places from the direct water and were are a lot of ways to do it:)
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<div><br>best regards<br><br><br><br>2011/4/6 Nikolay Marinov <<a href="mailto:nikvesmar@gmail..." target="_blank">nikvesmar@gmail...</a>><br><br><br>Hi everyone,<br>I would like to ask you for advice and share your experience about preventing moisture, penetrating into SB walls from bathroom, and other spaces with high humidity level.<br>
What kind of layers and finishes do you prefer to protect your wall if not using conventional waterproof materials.<br>I know few techniques as: Tadelakt (good water barrier but time consuming); Double skin wall with ventilated space between,glass on the wall, but it would be nice to share a trusted and working in time method that builders and designers like you prefer as solution.<br>
<br>Thank you in advance for you opinion.<br><br>Have a nice spring sun.<br>Niki<br><br>____________________________________________________<br> European strawbale building discussion list<br><br>Send all messages to:<br>
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<div>-- <br>Andrew Morrison<br>Consultant, Teacher, Inspiring Change<br><br>
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<br></blockquote></div><br><br clear="all"><br>-- <br>Andrew Morrison<br>
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<br>
<p>===================================================<br>
Learn the Secrets to Successful Home Construction:<br>
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===================================================<br>
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