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<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hallo Andre,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>ik volg het verhaal al een tijdje over waterdicht
maken van de badkamer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Ik zal mij even voorstellen, ik ben professioneel
bezig met dit soort materialen ik ben dus stukadoor met erg veel ervaring met
diverse soorten leemstuk en tadelakt (hydraulische kalk)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Volgens mijn bescheiden mening is het mogelijk om
op leemstuk tadelakt aan te brengen en deze te behandelen met 'was' om het water
bestendig te maken. Dan is de tadelakt de waterkerende laag en de eventuele
waterdamp die door de tadelakt gaat wordt op genomen door de leemstuk. Dit is
dus een volledig damp open systeem.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Wil je meer weten over tadelakt kun je mij
mailen.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>MvG</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Herbert Schuurink</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Rotterdam</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=m.ep@laposte... href="mailto:m.ep@laposte...">André de Bouter</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A title=strawbale@amper....muni.cz
href="mailto:strawbale@amper....muni.cz">strawbale@amper....muni.cz</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, January 21, 2003 10:21
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Strawbale] waterproofing
the bathroom</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>> The problem with gaps is that the mice like
to live in them. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The gap is also a higher risk for condensation,
and (when we talk of greater surfaces) could act as a chimney if there were to
be a fire behind that cladding etc.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I like Harald's suggestion to push tiles in the
clay, but care needs to be taken on the joints as they will be the danger
zone. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>The plaster behind the glued tiles needs to be
absolutely dry and finished settling in order to prevent cracking. When Tom
Rijven needs to garantee a no crack earth plaster he will wait for a year (the
4 seasons with their caracteristics)before he will do the last
layer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A bit further south than where you are, Marocco
offers an other suggestion. Taddelact (or whatever is your favorite
spelling)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>A lime plaster that has been waterproofed by
'crushing it' with a stone during the curing and treated with what we call
'green' soap in Holland. (The grandmothers type). A very interesting technique
that we want to try in our bathroom on our SB wall. Search for more info on
the Internet, or take a workshop in Marocco with the experts. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Little warning, it gives an absolutely beautiful
finish, but may not be a simple owner builder technique. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Martin Oehlmann suggested a natural paint from
Holland that makes plaster waterproof. Seems the most simple to me, though
(linseed) oil should also work. The problem is only, what if it doesn't work?
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>How to detect any moisture problems in your sb
wall before it is too late.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>With a moisture meter, either bought at a farmers
shop or hand made (see TLS no?)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Bye,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Andre</FONT></DIV>
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<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=strawbale@lineone... href="mailto:strawbale@lineone...">Barbara
Jones</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=strawbale@amper....muni.cz
href="mailto:strawbale@amper....muni.cz">strawbale@amper....muni.cz</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, January 20, 2003 4:26
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Strawbale] waterproofing
the bathroom</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Hi Rikki</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>I agree with Herbert's thinking. You'd be best
with some sort of rigid board that does not deform when wet to fix your
tiles to such as heraklith, or there are some clay boards available
commercially but not necessarily in your part of Spain. I'd try to only tile
the bits that get direct splash from water and leave the rest breathable,
and then there should be no need to leave an air gap. The problem with gaps
is that the mice like to live in them. If the straw is loadbearing and
therefore under compression, as long as you gave it a close haircut before
plastering (to reduce bounce) I would think you could fix tiles directly
onto the walls as you do for other wall systems. As far as I know, this
hasn't been tried before, but let us know if you do it!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Best wishes and good luck</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial size=2>Barbara</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><BR>Amazon Nails: Strawbale building, training, consultancy,
empowerment.<BR>
<A
href="http://www.strawbalefutures.org.uk">www.strawbalefutures.org.uk</A><BR>Building
With Straw Bales by Barbara Jones £9.50 post-free from Amazon Nails or from
Green Books<BR> Warning! Strawbale building can seriously
transform your life! </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=d.sign@aon... href="mailto:d.sign@aon...">Herbert Gruber</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=strawbale@amper....muni.cz
href="mailto:strawbale@amper....muni.cz">strawbale@amper....muni.cz</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, January 13, 2003 6:29
PM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Strawbale]
waterproofing the bathroom</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Dear Rikki<BR>Knauf is a gypsum-board, the problem is, that
such boards (even the cement-boards) tend to make a bow, <BR>when you fix
the tiles on it or glue it to the wall (in combination with
water).<BR>Better work with Heraklith-boards (3 - 5 cm, magnesium-glued)
and fix the tiles with cement-based tile-glue (Fliesenkleber).<BR>You need
no space between board and straw. You only need space when you have two
materials - one cold (like stone) and the other warm (like strawbale)
because of water-condensation or as a ventilation-space. In the last
case you had to make holes above ground and under the ceiling, so
that the air could circulate. But in this case the damp would go in the
bales. <BR>So: Make no ventilation space.<BR><BR>Best
wishes<BR>Herbert<BR><BR><BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE>HI! <BR><BR>I am thinking of putting panels of pladur
or knauf (a type of cement board) covered with tiles in the bathroom to
protect the bales from the water of the shower (not yet installed), but
i was wondering if I should put a layer of plaster under the board?
Also, should I leave an air space between the board and the bale
wall, or should they touch? Does it matter? <BR><BR>any comments
or alternative ideas are appreciated; I haven´t started the work there
yet, so I am open to other suggestions . . .<BR><BR><BR>MAY
THE wings OF LIBERTY NEVER LOSE A SINGLE FEATHER! <BR>love , RIKKI
<BR><BR>
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